Ek Balam
This enormous elaborate pyramid, "El Torre" - The Tower - located in the Maya
site of Ek Balam, is a striking sight after driving miles through the
surrounding jungle. The
building's magnitude and design is unique in the Yucatán. As in many other monumental
temples of the Mundo Maya, it is a result of many generations of construction,
layer upon layer. The Maya, like many other Mesoamerican cultures, employed
the tradition of adding a new "shell" of construction, covering the prior temple.
It was often done in 52-year cycles, a time lapse of great importance according
to the Maya calendar. Ek Balam is Maya
for 'Black Jaguar', which in itself is a powerful name and there is evidence that Ek Balam was an important and influential
city. First of all it was inhabited for a very long time. Whereas many
other cities in the Yucatán had a life span of five or six hundred
years, Ek Balam was alive and kicking for about 1000 years.
Construction started in the late Pre-Classic period (100 BC to 300 AD)
and continued well into Late Classic time, 600 to 900 AD. It may even
have been inhabited as late as the time of the Spanish invasion in the
16th century. When the Maya abandoned the site, it disappeared as the dense low-lying jungle of the Yucatán engulfed it. As
with all of the Maya pyramids, these were discovered when
archaeologists and adventurers saw a group of hills with trees and
bushes growing out of them. Digging in the mounds, they uncovered
treasures and artifacts previously hidden for hundreds of years.Archaeologists have excavated part of the temple in order
to reveal the underlying levels of construction. and they discovered the amazing
tomb of the ruler of Ek Balam and the exquisite and
awesome stucco wall making up the opening of the tomb. The doorway itself is
made in the shape of a jaguar's mouth with fearsome looking fangs all around
it. There are full figure statues with so much detail you can see the braids
in their hair and the pattern of their loincloths.
Hieroglyphs of corn sit next
to warriors with skulls on their belts. In some places you can see some wall
paintings in excellent condition. This unique stucco wall is in itself reason enough to visit
Ek Balam since it is rare to find stucco that has survived the ravages of time so well.
At
Ek Balam, restoration has been ongoing since 1997. The "Tower" is the
largest restored building, measuring 480 feet across, 180 feet wide and
96 feet tall. This palace has six levels where the governors and higher
echelons of the city’s population lived. You can climb this imposing structure, and from
the top you can see all the other structures at Ek Balam, as well as
two large hills which are two unrestored buildings.
Ek Balam is special in another sense: it is never overwhelmed with tourists.
While it is quieter and more peaceful than Chichén Itzá, it is also not
as fully excavated nor does it provide the same facilities for
the traveller. There is one restroom at the site, but no refreshments,
so be sure to bring your own. You can buy drinks and food in Temozon, a
small village you will pass on your way from the Toll road. Temozon
has a delicious claim to fame...its smoked meat, be sure to try some!
Ek Balam is open from 8 am to 4:30 pm and the entrance fee is
$31 pesos per person (£1.50), free on Sundays and holidays for Mexican
nationals.
Stela
View from the top of the Acropolis